RGA High Wycombe, (BJJ), Kev Capel, High Wycombe, UK - 29/09/2009
As appears to be a theme for Tuesdays, the advanced class started with takedowns, focusing on the single leg. Kev then drew on his judo experience (he's a black belt in that, along with his brown in BJJ), showing us a throw you can try if they've trapped your leg from the shoot, leaving you hopping around on one leg.
Its a variation of the sumi gaeshi sacrifice throw (lots of clips here). I don't normally bother listing throws, but this one was interesting. Having gone for a single, they've trapped your leg, holding it with their arms and pinching it between their knees. First you need to find your balance: Kev mentioned that at some point in the future, he wanted to get us doing some drills for that.
Reach over their back and hook your hand into their far armpit (Kev used two fingers, so I'm not sure if its better to do that, or grab with the whole hand). Your other hand will grip their far sleeve. You also want to hook the inside of their leg with yours, before sitting down and dropping back, flipping them over, then coming on top to side control.
If you're not careful, they may be able to turn into you after landing, so that you end up under side control instead. To prevent that from happening, you'll need to make some adjustment before you throw. Move your head so that it is in pressing in front of their head: maintain that pressure all the way through the throw. That should stop them being able to turn into you, and also make it easier for you to switch straight into side control.
Continuing with side control, we worked the Brabo choke (which as Kev mentioned, has a lot of names: John Kavanagh apparently takes the mick out of this difficulty with nomenclature, calling it the 'chokey choke'). Once you've cleared the elbow, move round to north south, making sure you don't let them get that arm free.
Now that you have their arm squished against their head, slip your opposite hand under their head, reaching past their trapped arm. Grab your the bicep of your other hand (like you would for a RNC), then reach that arm over their stomach. Squeeze for the submission (again, like a RNC).
If they get their arm free when you try that, there is a variation available. Make sure their head is facing away from you (if not, push their chin with your knuckles). Slip your hand under their head as before, so that your bicep is pressing into their throat.
You can now either slide backwards for a crank, or get that hand right through. That will then allow you to again grab your other bicep and get that RNC type position, squeezing for the choke. This is especially good if you have skinny little arms, like me: otherwise, it may be tough to get the right pressure on the neck.
Sparring started from side control, but wasn't specific: after that, you continued until somebody got a submission. Kevin does this quite a lot, and it like the way it cuts out that slightly pointless moment of staring at each other from the knees, where I inevitably pull guard.
Sparring with a tall white belt, I found myself in mount. As he was trying to wrap my arm, I swam through without thinking to re-establish my position. It then struck me that this is exactly what I'd been working with my girlfriend, who is still slowly making her way through Gracie Combatives. I then made a conscious effort to use the high and low swim, which functioned well in combination with some of the other parts of Rener's lesson, like 'anchor and base', along with hooking both legs.
Just goes to show how good Rener and Ryron's teaching is on that DVD. I haven't been practicing any of it myself, but instead have been directing my girlfriend in her training, after watching the videos together. Nevertheless, it has clearly sunk in, as I was able to use it effectively tonight against somebody bigger.
With Rob, I soon found myself in the opposite situation, under his mount. This happens frequently against blue belts, so I'm clearly making the same mistake. However, it also gives me a chance to try the techniques from Saulo's book, focusing on making a frame with the arms against their hip. I need to use that more, and as ever stop being so static.
I also got caught in that triangle position again where they don't have the arm. This isn't really a submission, but it hurts your neck. I'd learned my lesson from straining against this one when sparring Dan a while back, so just tapped. Much better to restart and do something more productive, instead of hurting myself to soothe my ego.
Finally I rolled with Howard, a blue belt I haven't seen before, but seems both experienced and friendly. I was trying to think carefully about using my arms, legs and hips under side control: I often forget about my arms, as I'm being overly careful to avoid expending energy. They're handy for wedging some space, and helped me escape a couple of times.
At one point, I even found myself set up for a triangle when spinning out of side control. It wasn't a planned set up, I just happened to have my legs in the right place. Howard immediately postured and moved back, so it wouldn't have gone anywhere even if time hadn't run out, but still something to keep in mind. Roy Dean spins into triangles out of side control repeatedly on Blue Belt Requirements, so I should try it more often.
I'm stll getting crunched up in half guard, where I need to try bumping them with my knee more often, to break their posture. I'm also continuing to find myself under knee-on-belly, which I have to block more effectively. I've been trying Michael Jen's defence, where he lifts their leg into half guard with the space between thumb and finger, but the arm feels vulnerable when stretched out like that.
RGA High Wycombe, (BJJ), Kev Capel, High Wycombe, UK - 29/09/2009
Bit late on this, but I just saw on one of the forums that Black Eagle is doing another 10% discount at the moment. To get the 10% off, go to their site and use the voucher code sept09 when you check out. Only works until the end of this month though, so seeing that is today, probably not too helpful.
There are several ways of getting your arms in place for the Americana, and while I never get this submission, it is interesting to see the slight differences. Once their wrist is secured, Kev was slipping his whole arm past the elbow and into place. On Gracie Combatives, Rener and Ryron insert the hand palm up near the elbow, then gradually twist it round to secure the grip. The main problem for me, however, is working their arm down in the first place, so I need to focus on that part of the technique before worrying about the finish.
Kev also went through some defensive options if somebody catches you in an Americana. Naturally its better to not end up there in the first place by keeping your arm safe, tucking the elbow, but that's easier said than done during sparring. If you do get caught, then Kev suggested getting your head into the crook of their elbow, which is a great stalling position to give yourself time to escape. However, as Kev heavily emphasised, you need to tap if you get caught during the escape: it isn't worth your shoulder.
Finally, Kevin showed us a basic escape from side control, which is always welcome. The point to note on this one is using a single leg bridge. You can go to both legs to increase the power of your bridge, but that will give them a chance to block your knee with their arm. If you bridge off one leg with your knee already in place by your ribs, then you can drop that knee right into place after bridging. They don't have time to jam their arm in the way.
That also reminds me, again, that I haven't updated my technique summary in a long time. Now that I'm regularly attending a basics class again, that's definitely something I'd like to do (if nothing else, means I can just link to the technique rather than repeatedly writing it out).
Sparring was of course from side control. It was king of the hill, and I was pretty terrible at maintaining my side control tonight. I attempted to stay mobile and switch position, swinging my arm through to block the hip if they were slipping free. However, I was neither quick enough nor sufficiently sensitive to how they were moving.
I can feel myself losing control, as their hips begin to escape, but I'm never able to do anything much about it. I should be controlling their hips better in the first place, but this isn't a position where a small guy like me can just hunker down and hope to squish them in place. I have to move, but more importantly, I have to know where to move. That's at least one aspect I'm missing at the moment: just randomly going to some variation of side control isn't going to help.
RGA High Wycombe, (BJJ), Kev Capel, High Wycombe, UK - 24/09/2009
Continuing the lessons from Tuesday, Kev added in some more work on the butterfly guard. He also repeated the drill where you lift up your partner then put them back, but with a twist. This time the point was for the person on top to sink their weight and prevent being lifted. I was pretty crap at that, which is partially because I'm small and light, but also because I'm still poor at dropping my hips down.
That was followed by a butterfly pass. You begin by threading your arm through their legs. Push their knees to one side, crushing down with your body weight to help your arm. If their arm is in range, grab it and feed the sleeve to the hand you now have between their legs.
With your other hand, reach for the back of collar: you could also secure a grip over their shoulder. Drive your head into their stomach, using that for base, then raise your hips and walk around.
Once again, Kev then showed the counter, with a butterfly sweep. As soon as they try to thread their arm through, stiffen your legs. That should give you enough time to grasp the sleeve of that threading arm with your opposite hand. Reach over their back with your other hand and grasp some gi fabric.
Next, turn and bring your hooking foot from the threading arm side to their other leg. Your free foot can be used for additional power, as you now lean back and lift, simultaneously pulling with the grip you have on their back. Done right, that should flip them into your side control (make sure you keep your head close, so they don't land too far away). There are submission opportunities here too, but as a beginner class, we stuck with the basics.
Specific sparring from butterfly guard again didn't yield much success, as my training partner Sam had little difficulty passing. Hopefully it still helped me to familiarise myself with the position, but clearly I need lots of work for both the bottom and the top of butterfly guard.
After that, it was straight into the hour of sparring, though I ended up only going three rounds. I tried to be more aggressive, especially with collar chokes, particularly the one where you get a deep grip, then sneak your other hand around the back and wait to try and loop it round. I wasn't get close to choking anyone, but it did seem to work to a degree as a distraction.
I later managed to get something I've been trying for a while, where you first underhook an arm in guard and grab their collar, then use your other arm against their neck for the choke. However, I think that was mainly because my sparring partner had just got choked the previous round, so was being especially careful. I need to be tighter, set it up better and secure a tighter grip.
Guard passing was improved from yesterday, as I wasn't so bent over once I stood up, but I nevertheless kept sitting back down. I tried to achieve a straighter posture, and successfully got the cross-grip I've been looking for to help me pass. However, didn't manage to capitalise, as he still hooked my other leg. I need to stagger my legs more carefully, and also improve my balance and posture.
Another thing I'm still attempting is the triangle. I was especially looking for the spider guard set up, but too obvious. On one of the white belts he could see it a mile off, whereas on another guy I had a leg over his neck, but couldn't fully close the lock. I tried hooking the arm and swivelling to make more of an angle, but was too stacked by that point. Seeing he was standing at this point, I then looked to switch to an armbar, but too late, as I no longer had enough control.
Remembering what Dolph mentioned in a comment last time, I focused on getting an underhook from under half guard, also thinking about what Brad suggested (on Facebook, so can't link to that, unfortunately) in regards to Eddie Bravo's approach (the half guard is one of the few sufficiently basic parts of Mastering the Rubber Guard I'm therefore willing to try). Again, attacking the neck seemed to help as a distraction.
RGA High Wycombe, (BJJ), Kev Capel, High Wycombe, UK - 22/09/2009
There wasn't much of a break between classes, going straight into a thankfully brief warm-up (a few throws, with some uchikomi: Kev also has a black belt in judo, so that's unsurprising). At RGA in London, I used to get a little rest when doubling-up classes, because you could sit out the warm-up if you'd just spent the previous hour training. Not so here, meaning that my cardio is going to take some time to adjust! ;)
As with the beginner class, Kev's theme for the intermediate/advanced was butterfly guard. He started with another butterfly pass, this time off an armdrag. You have them in butterfly guard, where they then grab your collar. Strip that grip (e.g., both hands under and thrust away), then with one hand on their sleeve and the other by their armpit, pull them across your body.
They will now be overbalanced and close to you, meaning that you should immediately capitalise. Reach under them with one arm, over their back with the arm, locking a gable grip by their side where your hands meet. You can now sweep as in the last class, noting that you have to lift them as you drop back. That means you can also readjust your hooking foot deep behind their knee, as space should open up in the midst of that motion.
Kev followed this up with a submission, the D'arce choke. From the previous gable grip position, you remove the hand you had on top, instead threading that under their near arm, reaching right by their head. Your other arm goes over their head.
You need to grab the bicep of that arm with the hand you have by their head. Especially in the gi, it can be difficult to get the hand and arm close enough for a good grip. If you're finding it tough, try pushing down on their head with your arm: that should make it easier to secure a hold on your bicep.
Finally, reach over their back with your bicep arm, squeeze and drop back. Getting a good grip may take a few tries: speaking personally, I was ok on my strong side, but could only manage a loose grip on my weak side. Also, Kev showed how this can be an option as they switch to side control. Even if they're pretty much past, if you've set it up in time, the submission is still an option.
The last technique was moving from butterfly guard into an x-guard sweep. This is the same thing I saw about three months ago at Nova Força, useful for when they try to initiate a butterfly pass. As soon as they post their leg, swivel your body towards that limb, using your arm to trap their foot against your head, getting it right to your shoulder. Put your legs into the x-guard position (one foot under their thigh, the other foot on their hip, pressing with the top of your instep).
Next, you want to get the foot you've trapped off the floor, by pushing with your own feet on their leg. Make sure you have their foot right up to your shoulder, or your grip will be too loose. Once you feel their foot lose purchase on the ground due to your push, switch the hooking foot you have under their thigh to their knee. Push more to get them off-balance, then do a technical stand-up to get back to your feet, still holding their leg (this should be straightforward if its on your shoulder). Their base is now completely broken, so it should be a simple matter to take out their leg for the sweep.
During specific sparring, I didn't really get anywhere with my training partner Callum. He had little trouble sweeping me when underneath, or passing when on top. However, I did at least get to familiarise myself with butterfly guard a little, trying to bring him back with my legs when he managed to flatten me out. I also had a go at wiggling my arm through for the D'arce, but wasn't quick enough.
During free sparring, I got smashed by one of the blue belts, Rob. He was throwing on a whole bunch of chokes, easily getting to a high mount each time. As in the last lesson, I need better hip movement, and also more activity on the bottom. I did remember to try and bump them forward a few times to disrupt submission attempts, but didn't manage to make space and shrimp.
I think there was someone else before that, but can't remember. The last spar was interesting, with the same white belt from last week, Dan. I again tried standing to pass, but this time almost handed him an armbar and then a triangle. I managed to wriggle my arms past his legs and thought I'd be nicely set up for a double-underhooks pass.
No such luck, as instead he clamped his legs around my head. That was distinctly uncomfortable for two reasons. First, I hurt my own neck if I tried to move in either direction, and secondly, I was unpleasantly close to a faceful of humid man crotch. Not fun.
I did eventually get free, trying the pass where you grab the back of their gi pants and flip them right over. That didn't quite go according to plan, as after a scramble I ended up back underneath again. I tried the Tran side control escape, but didn't have any energy left, so instead got squished under mount. Squirmed my way back to half guard a little later, managing to get on my side, but again in the wrong spot to launch an attempt on the back.
After that round was finished, I decided to sit out the last one. I know my stamina will improve if I keep showing up and training, but its a strenuous process getting there. I've had a slight lay-off while in Turkey for three weeks, but its probably more due to the fact that I've only been training an average of once a week over the past few months. Its good to get back to twice a week, with two classes each night, but my body was definitely complaining the next day.
RGA High Wycombe, (BJJ), Kev Capel, High Wycombe, UK - 22/09/2009
Today would involve a little more training than Thursday, as while both nights are split into beginner and intermediate/advanced classes, on Thursday its just extra sparring. On Tuesday, the split is sufficiently clear that I'll stick it into two entries rather than last time, when I combined the hour of sparring into the beginners class write-up.
Kev's focus for the beginner class was butterfly guard, providing us with two options for sweeping and passing respectively. More than that, however, he wanted to get across the principles involved in butterfly guard: balance and leverage. Towards that end, we started with a drill where we started in butterfly guard, locked both hands behind our partner then leaned back and lifted at the same time.
That led on to the first butterfly sweep. Its a fairly basic one, which starts by gripping their same side sleeve and collar. You scoot slightly away, maintaining a hook with your foot underneath their other leg. For the sweep, lean back, simultaneously pushing their sleeve down between their legs while you lift with your hook. Done right, you should end up in mount.
The point here is to use the momentum and leverage you've created by leaning back, rather than trying to lift them up purely with your hooking foot. Unless you're very strong, or your partner is very small, that isn't going to work. If on the other hand you get the leverage right, but they are still too big, you can drive off the toes of your other foot to add some power.
The next butterfly sweep is similar, but works both gi and nogi. Instead of grabbing their collar, you're going to underhook them on the same side as your hooking foot, reaching your hand around their back. With your other hand, you'll grab their elbow instead of their sleeve. Otherwise, it is the same motion as before, pulling their arm in as you lean back and lift, rolling on top into mount.
Like last time, Kev then provided the other side of the equation, with two passes. His opening butterfly pass involved flattening them out before they can lean back and lift you up. You aren't out of danger, as they can use their butterfly hooks to move you back and sit up again, but it gives you some time to work.
Now that they're flat, wrap around the outside of their leg with your arm, which stops them lifting your leg with their hook. Press your other side shoulder into their torso, then raise your hips and walk around into side control. You can also use a hand to push their other leg, if you're having trouble clearing that space.
The pressure from your shoulder is essential here: that will pin them down as you walk around. Raising your hips takes your weight off them, so you need to use your shoulder to make sure you keep gravity on your side.
The next butterfly pass is much the same, with one difference. Instead of pinning their leg and walking around, you're going to bring one of your legs back to release their hook. You can now reinsert the knee by the instep of their other foot, so that you now have both legs against their single limb.
That also means you can bring all your weight to bear on that one side, trapping that leg, while their other foot has nothing to hook. As before, walk your legs around to side control, maintaining pressure, pushing their leg out of the way if you need to.
In specific sparring, I spent most of my time readjusting underneath, as ever ending up in one of those boring half guard cycles where they bring their knee through, then you re-establish your lock, over and over. I'm trying to get more on my side and look to see if I can get to the back, but I'm still ending up with my torso on the wrong side most of the time. I need more hip movement, more bumping and perhaps more threatening for some kind of attack (not that I expect to even get close to submitting somebody, but it might help give me space).
During guard passing, I'm pleased I managed to get myself to stand up, but I ended up in a very vulnerable bent over posture, so plopped straight back down most of the time. Later I tried to straighten up, but left my arm out in the process, which my partner happily took for an easy submission. Still, its a start, so I just have to keep on standing until I get better posture and balance.
RGA High Wycombe, (BJJ), Kev Capel, High Wycombe, UK - 17/09/2009
I got back from Turkey last night: as usual, I'll do a write-up later, sticking in the link once its done. My gf and I spent a little under three weeks wandering over my father's country, bookended by the city where he grew up, Istanbul. I haven't been in over eight years, so it was very interesting to see what's changed (most notably a whole load of trams which weren't there before), along with all the places I've not visited before around the rest of Turkey (like Kaş, Antalya, Pamukkale etc).
While that was of course a great trip, it also meant that I missed lots of training. I try not to go more than two weeks without BJJ, so the day after I got back, I headed down to the Roger Gracie affiliate in High Wycombe. As I'll be staying with my parent's until I get that ever-elusive job, RGA High Wycombe is only five miles away. This time round I got a lift from my gf, but I'll hopefully be able to cycle it in the not-too-distant future. Cryer's Hill should certainly make for a workout on the way back!
RGA High Wycombe isn't the easiest place to find, especially as the Google Map was a little confusing. It appears that a car park has popped up which Google didn't notice, so that the roundabout where it says "third exit to Temple Street" doesn't make sense. If you happen to be coming off the A40 or A4128, its the exit after the two that head to the car park (the second is deliveries only).
Union St also appears a bit vague, as that sent us into a bus station. Drive past that instead, then once you're onto Desborough Road, it makes more sense. Turn into Green Street, then go to the end of Leigh Street. When you see those gates at the end, you should be near a tunnel on the right. There are signs for 'HWABC', which stands for 'High Wycombe Amateur Boxing Club'. RGA High Wycombe is in there, so you follow the tunnel and turn left, then up the stairs (a few more HWABC signs are dotted around helping you along the way).
It was good to see Kev again, who has received his brown belt since I last trained with him at RGA HQ. He has been teaching in High Wycombe since January this year, having already begun teaching in Aylesbury a bit earlier. Classes at RGA High Wycombe are held on Tuesdays and Thursdays, starting with an hour for beginners at 19:00, then the advanced class after that. I'm not sure what happens on Tuesday yet, but on Thursday, its an hour of free sparring.
The beginners class started off with a fairly brief warm-up, consisting of the usual shrimping, breakfalling and lizard walk (at least that's how I first heard it titled: its the one where you start with your left arm forward and left leg back, while your right knee is touching your right elbow. You then go up the room switching that position, doing a press-up motion as you change from left to right).
Technique was good and basic, covering the triangle from guard. Kev demonstrated the simplest set-up, which is to grab both wrists, then push one back. Bring your same side thigh to their neck, making sure to completely clear the arm your just pushed into their chest. Lock your feet together: it is important that from then on, you never leave them space to posture up and escape.
To finish, you need to readjust so that the leg you brought up goes directly across their leg, locking your shin behind your other knee. The easiest way to do that is grab the shin in question and pull it back, until you're able to put it behind your knee. This creates the triangle position, after which you can then squeeze your knees together and raise your hips for the tap (you may also need to pull down on their head).
Kev also mentioned several useful tips for getting to the triangle. If you aren't able to bring both your legs up straightaway, you can take the slower route, pushing off their hip with your free foot. That will give you additional lift, so you can get your other thigh right up to their neck.
You then have two main options for swivelling (it is a good idea to create an angle, as finishing the triangle square on is tough). First, you can grab your shin to maintain control, then use your free foot to push off the floor and turn. Alternately, you can try the Ryan Hall method, which is to underhook their arm, using that as a pivot point instead.
Having shown the submission, Kev followed up with two triangle defences. The first was for when they haven't yet locked on the triangle, but you find yourself with one arm in-between their legs, the other outside. This is dangerous, as you are presenting your opponent with an opportunity to triangle you.
If that happens, immediately reach across their body with your free hand, as if you were throwing a left or right hook. At the same time, drive off your toes, so that you end up turning your body around their leg. It is important you don't just rely on your arm, as that won't provide enough power to pop open their ankles (if they've already locked them). Keep moving through until you can slide into side control, remembering to pressure with your hips.
The second triangle defence is for when you've been caught. Their legs are in place and locked. Grab their collar with the arm in-between their legs (if they're controlling that arm, you'll have to wriggle it free, or this defence is dead in the water). Grip the back of their gi pants with your other hand, in order to prevent them moving their hips.
Jump up to your feet and push their collar to the floor, thereby driving the edge across their throat. That pressure should be enough to get them to open their legs, whereupon you can initiate a pass: if not, you may be able to submit them from here. Be careful that you maintain that hold on their pants: otherwise, your arm is outstretched, so if their hips are free, they can swivel into an armbar.
The nogi option is to just drive your hand into their throat, using the part between your thumb and forefinger (which I think is called the 'cagina'): this has acquired the unfortunate name of the 'rape choke'. Not sure if there is a more pleasant term.
Specific sparring from guard finished off the beginners class, where I found I was just about able to pass my partner's guard, but in a rather sloppy fashion, and mainly because he was very active in going for submissions. That paid off for him when we moved to his guard, as I got caught with a kimura (which surprised me: I didn't think he was in position, so need to be careful), and he also managed to swiftly spin into a rear naked choke.
I had a more measured roll with Joel, a big blue belt, possibly because he wasn't using his strength due to the size difference. Most of the spar was spent in my open guard, as I tried to grip either his sleeves or lapels, pushing his arms and hips with my feet. When he eventually managed to start passing into side control, I tried pushing on his head and shoulder to recover guard. That worked for a little while, but it was only holding off the inevitable. I should also have probably concentrated more on actually pushing on the head, rather than just wedging my arm against it.
The next hour was all free sparring, divided into six minute rounds with two minutes rest in between. I got to roll with almost everyone, but had to leave early in order to catch my lift. Generally I was spending a lot of time under either side control or half guard, staying too flat on my back in both positions. I also need to be less passive: I'm too content to just lie their and wait. While that does conserve energy, which is handy when you're sparring for an hour, it makes for a dull roll.
The main problem, however, was the old one of guard passing. I made a couple of half-hearted attempts at the Roy Dean pass, but really I to stand up. I've been saying it for years, but it remains a sticking point. So next time, particularly as there is so much sparring time, I'll have to force myself to stand, working on the component parts (e.g., grip, getting to one knee, how to stand, base etc).
My leg also cramped up, which is an irritation I've had a few times, especially when I'm reaching for half guard. This time it happened while sparring with Kevin, which was probably a good thing as he is the most experienced, and therefore most relaxed. Hopefully that cramp won't happen so often once I get back into the swing of things, particularly as I settle into cycling.
Cycling definitely appeals, as the area surrounding the gym isn't especially pleasant. I can't say I much enjoyed waiting for my lift, while a succession of distinctly dodgy looking blokes wandered past. So, being able to immediately cycle off would be good!
My father is Turkish, and as a result I've been to his home country many times, in order to visit relatives. We used to go as a family every year, but I shifted to travelling on my own with my girlfriend around 2001. As my parents have some property over there, in both Bodrum and Istanbul, its rather tardy of me that I'm only taking my gf eight and half years into our relationship. I guess better late than never, as the cliché goes.
For this trip, we decided that we wanted to see a bit more of Turkey than just Istanbul or Bodrum, so plumped for a tour group company, Intrepid Travel. My gf and I have travelled with Intrepid before, back in 2004 when we joined one of their tours around China. As there was a 20% discount on Intrepid's 'Comfort Turkey' offering, we jumped at the chance.
The itinerary takes you from Istanbul to the famous rock formations of Göreme in Cappodocia, then onto the conservative town of Konya, followed by Antalya, which by contrast is saturated with tourism. A boat trip from Kaş came next, then the ghost village of Kayakoy, never repopulated after the exchange (more on that later). The trip drew to a close with historical Selçuk, well-placed to visit the ruins of Ephesus, then finally the natural wonders of Pamukkale before returning to Istanbul.
We flew out with British Airways, which is the first time in a while my gf and I have looked beyond the no-frills budget airlines. It was refreshing to not get punched in the wallet for the smallest extras, with a relatively decent meal in the middle of the flight. We arrived into Turkey too late for the orientation meeting at the Blue Hills Hotel in Sultanahmet (the epicentre of Istanbul sight-seeing), so instead had to introduce ourselves to everyone individually at breakfast the following morning.
It soon transpired that with only a few exceptions, our fellow travellers were middle-aged Australian women (ranging from around thirty to seventy). There was also an American and a New Zealander, while my gf and I are from Europe. The gender balance was therefore very heavily female, myself and an older gent providing the sole male representation. That was perfect for me, as I much prefer the company of women. Even better if its mature women, as that greater life experience tends to mean more interesting conversation!
The tour leader, also Australian, took us on a quick walking tour of Istanbul over the course of the morning (including the beautifully tiled Rustam Paşa mosque), after which we had the day to ourselves, before an overnight train to Göreme. Fortunately for me, my parents were finishing off their own trip that day, which meant my gf and I could meet up with them and have a lovely meal at Saray Muhallebicisi, my favourite restaurant in Beyoğlu. Took me a while to find my father, who found my distinctly touristy outfit hilarious: pale white legs poking out of shorts, shades and a suitably silly hat from Spain.
Travelling from Sultanahmet to my father's boyhood haunts in Taksim meant I got my first look at the new tram system (or at least, new to me). It costs 1.50 TL to go one way to any stop (no matter how near or far down that line), then a further 1.50 TL if you want to change or go back the other way. You either buy a 'jeton' (a round token made of metal or plastic: don't mix them up. For example, the Taksim funicular uses the plastic ones, whereas everywhere else – I think – uses the metal coins), or use an 'akbil'.
If you're familiar with the Oyster card on the London Underground, this works on the same principle: load up your akbil with money at a machine or ticket office, and you can then use your balance by touching it to the relevant part of the turnstile. The akbil itself is a plastic strip with a metal blob at the top: you insert the blob into a round circle on the turnstile, whereupon it tells you how much you've got left, and makes a click to inform you its now possible to push your way through.
Our overnight train left Istanbul at around 22:30, getting into Ankara the next morning, followed by a private transfer to Göreme. The surrounding area of Cappadocia is famous for its bizarre rock formations, which are often referred to as 'fairy chimneys'. At least, that is what you'll read in guidebooks: most of them actually look like a giant penis made of rock. I took the conventional photographic route, but there were plenty of imaginatively posed pictures produced by other members of the Intrepid tour group...
Lewd photography aside, these 'chimneys' have seen a good deal of history, having been used as cave dwellings over the centuries. Once you break through the layer which has hardened through exposure to the air, the rock is apparently very soft and easily excavated. That is why people used to literally dig their homes out of these natural structures, the most fascinating examples of which are at the Göreme Open Air Museum. There was once a monastic community in the area, who carved not only homes, but churches too: frescoes still survive, along with iconoclastic decoration.
On a more random note, there was also a large film crew following round a group of men in tracksuits. My girlfriend and I looked on curiously from the steps of an old monastery, trying to work out who these people were. A few days later, that question was answered as we briefly watched the TV in our Konya hotel room: it was the Turkish football team, who were training in nearby Kayseri. My father would have been a lot more excited than I was to see Fatih Terim (current national team manager and famous ex-player for Galatasaray), so shame he wasn't there with me.
The Open Air Museum also gave me the opportunity to pick up a Müze Kart ('museum card'). For 20 TL, this gets you into a huge range of museums and sites across Turkey, so its incredibly good value. My parents had recommended I get one, as it pays for itself quickly, especially given how expensive places like Hagia Sophia and Topkapı Palace are. The only downside is that you have to be Turkish. That means while I had no problems (except other Turks often find it a little strange my grasp of Turkish is so tenuous), I had no luck trying to get one for my girlfriend. "Turkish only, sorry," was the blunt response.
Göreme is relatively touristy, but in a much less obnoxious fashion than a major centre like Istanbul or one of the coastal resorts. We weren't pestered by touts, and as the guide books promise, the hotels are plonked straight into the middle of ordinary village life. Outside where we were staying at the Arch Palace, there were a bunch of chickens and a rooster, while villagers regularly pulled their carts up and down the road, taking no notice of us.
However, being tourists, we were keen for entertainment. Intrepid offers a 'Turkish Night' as one of its optional activities at this point, and despite the way it sounds, it was actually a lot of fun. The performers all seemed eager, with a real sense of humour, so while I've no idea how authentic the folk dancing and food was, I don't particularly care: very enjoyable.
Belly dancing was, as you'd expect in Turkey, a central part of Turkish Night. I had mentioned to the tour leader that the last time a belly dancer had tried to call me up for some audience participation, I was an introverted child on the cusp of puberty, bubbling with hormones. So I tried to hide under the table. That didn't help, as the belly dancer chased me down, gyrating hips leading the way.
I'm now an introverted adult instead, but as an adult, I have access to the joys of alcohol. Naturally the tour leader told everyone in the group to try and make sure the belly dancer picked me, so I was getting through a steady stream of red wine in preparation. Certainly did the trick when I was indeed eventually called up, made even less intimidating by the various other guys who were brought up along with me. The dubious fruits of the belly dancer's instruction can be seen below:
Apparently my gf was disappointed by my lacklustre hip wiggle, given that I'm normally MUCH more enthusiastic. I guess she has a point, as I look a little stiff, but hey, I need '80s music to really throw myself into the dancing. Other cheese will do the job too, like at my sister's wedding (for Facebook friends of mine). ;)
As the alcohol slithered its way out of our systems, we were on another bus across the country, this time to the conservative centre of Konya. 'Conservative' was a word that repeatedly popped up in descriptions, and to an extent it is certainly true. Far more women in headscarves, and Ramadan appears to be a bigger deal than places we'd been previously. That was made abundantly clear when it got later at night, and it was time to announce the end of fasting. Most places would make do with a guy chanting, or possibly drums. That's not good enough for Konya: they set off a massive explosion. Which is especially loud if you happen to be trying to drink tea in the park a few metres away.
I have to say that Konya itself didn't hold that much interest for me. It was nice not being bothered while walking through the shopping areas, and the Mevlana Museum had a few attractive exhibits, but it isn't a city you especially need to see. If I was in the area again for some reason, I'd bypass Konya and head straight for Çatalhöyük, an archaeological site I would love to visit (unfortunately we arrived too late during our one day in Konya). It can legitimately stake a claim as the oldest human city in the world, founded around 7000BC (IIRC).
If you're heading to the Mevlana Museum (2 TL), be aware that it's a pilgrimage site, so wearing a headscarf and covering your shoulders and knees would be advisable. It also apparently attracts the mentally unbalanced, judging by one chap who was wandering around stroking everything in reach and pressing his face to exhibits. He seemed entirely unconcerned with the prominent DO NOT TOUCH signs, brazenly slouched next to one of the tombs. Security attempted to get him to move at one point, but either they gave up trying, or he said something suitably pious in Turkish. I would be surprised if you had more leeway in a shrine than in a typical museum, though obviously I don't know how the conversation went.
Antalya has a lot more to offer for the average tourist. After a six hour coach journey, we had the afternoon to ourselves, with no group activities planned. Along with a fellow traveller on the Intrepid tour group (I have absolutely no sense of direction, so always try to tag along with somebody else if possible), I headed to one of the reasons I wanted to go on this trip in the first place: the Antalya Archaeological Museum.
My father had told me this was among the best museums in Turkey, and it didn't disappoint. There is a stupendous collection of sarcophagi, my favourite featuring a chronological series following the twelve labours of Hercules (I adore the old tongue-in-cheek TV series, so even without my longstanding interest in mythology, Hercules gets my attention). I particularly liked the way the sculpture connects all twelve into a developing narrative: first you see a beardless Hercules slay the Nemean lion, then later he's wearing the lion skin as a cloak, steadily sprouting a manly set of whiskers as you continue to walk around the four sides of the sarcophagus.
The best aspect of the museum is probably its comprehensive information panels. The translation to English is perfect, and they are both actually informative and helpful in adding to enjoyment of accompanying exhibits. The Hall of Gods was another highlight, although the lighting relied upon motion sensors, which got a little annoying: you had to dance around in front of the statues to finish reading the captions.
For some reason, after all that hard work the museum put into ancient history, it gives up once you get to the ethnographic section. Suddenly the information panels disappear, meaning you've got no idea what you're looking at or its importance. Given that there is so much else to see, this isn't a big problem, but it's a shame the standard drops at the end.
Antalya itself has plenty of history in its architecture, centred in the old Kaleici district, where our hotel was located. I had a great time on the second day just meandering past the cluster of buildings, listening to a podcast on Byzantine history. My girlfriend headed off to a waterfall instead, which apparently was well worth the trip, but as I'm more interested in history than natural wonders anyway, I thought I'd save the cash.
Kaş was next up on the tour, our starting point for a beautiful boat trip. September can be variable in terms of weather, but we were lucky that it stayed clear for our time at sea. Food was included, which was handy: the tasty meal involved one of the very few things I can cook, köfte. Our boat stopped at regular points, allowing for some swimming, as well as a bit of sight seeing, led by our personable tour guide. The longest pause was at a fishing village you can only reach by boat (but on all the tourist routes): very pretty place, with fabulous ice cream. Xanthos, the local group Intrepid used for the boat tour, seem to be a good company, so if they're always up to that standard, I can recommend them.
The UNESCO World Heritage site of Kayaköy followed, which proved to be a revealing personal experience for me. We were told the name literally means 'ghost village', which is confusing. While 'köy' definitely translates as 'village', I know someone called Kaya: it means 'rock', not 'ghost'. Unless I misheard, and they said 'the ghost village of Kayaköy', rather than claiming that was its actual name.
Either way, the reason it's referred to as the 'ghost village' is due to the fact the entire population was moved to Greece during the early part of the 20th century. The idea was to effect a 'population exchange' between Turkey and Greece, with 'Turks' moving to Turkey and 'Greeks' moving to Greece. Theoretically you can see what they were thinking, but in practice, it involved uprooting people from their homes, their friends and their livelihood due to quirks of religion. These people may have lived there for centuries: they certainly didn't care about arbitrary borders.
Kayaköy was one of the failures. There were many more Turks of 'Greek' ancestry relocated to Greece than in the other direction. Even when there were Turks to replace the Greeks, they weren't always able to flourish in a new environment. Hence why Kayaköy was abandoned: there was nobody to take over from the previous inhabitants. Shells of buildings dot the landscape, along with derelict churches, a few of which still retain some of their decoration, but mostly it looks as if the area was a casualty of war.
The reason this was personal for me is that I'd known my grandfather used to live in Crete. I also knew that he'd moved to Istanbul after the Ottoman Empire collapsed, almost taking Turkey with it (and probably would have, if it wasn't for Ataturk: as a result, you'll see his face everywhere you go in Turkey). What I didn't realise until going to Kayaköy was that this meant he was in fact part of that population exchange. Asking my aunt and father later on, they told me that my grandfather's family had been in Crete for a couple of hundred years prior to that. So, somewhere in a graveyard in Crete are the bones of my ancestors, which is a weird thought.
Kayaköy was also our base to visit Ölüdeniz, the most unpleasantly touristy part of the whole trip. I don't have a problem with tourists, as that's exactly what I was doing: Intrepid is a tour group, after all. However, I don't much enjoy the chavvy brand of tourist which is unfortunately one of Britain's major exports, on show in force at Ölüdeniz. My girlfriend and I decided to head off for another boat trip, as the first one had been so good, but it was overrun by chavs.
One lady in particular epitomised that kind of tourism. In the middle of Ramadan, a religious festival based on abstinence, she was proudly displaying her breast implants to the Turkish crew. Not satisfied with baring all whilst sunbathing, she later took to lounging around the ship, still topless. If you want to get a tan on your chest, fine, but a smidgeon of cultural sensitivity wouldn't go amiss.
Speaking of the Turkish crew, there was an entertaining character on board, looking to take photographs and sell them back to tourists. I'm not sure how much money he makes doing that, as most people have their own cameras, but he does at least have a gimmick. Ramos sports a full beard and long hair, wears a sash, a three-cornered hat and a bandana. Remind you of anyone? Ramos insists he came up with the idea long before the Pirates of the Caribbean franchise, but it's a pretty blatant Jack Sparrow outfit. Most amusing of all, he has a t-shirt with a picture of himself on it, grinning happily with thumbs up.
There was flooding during that week, so our bus to Selçuk was a little delayed. Once it finally got going, it took us four and a half hours to reach our destination: it's indicative of how much travelling this tour involved that it seemed like a short journey. The main purpose of going to Selçuk was its proximity to Ephesus, a major Roman ruin. It is also the namesake of Efes Pilsen, my father's beer of choice.
When you've been to Pompeii, it is tough for any other ruin to live up to expectations, but Ephesus does have plenty of intriguing things to see. The remains of a library and the theatre are two of the highlights, with various interesting sculptures, gates and columns dotted around the site.
The Ephesus Museum back in Selçuk is something you should make sure to check out in order to get the full picture. The highlight comes in the form of two large statues of Artemis from her temple, once counted among the original Seven Wonders of the World. I had also hoped to check out the archaeological library mentioned in my guidebook, but annoyingly it was closed to the public: apparently students from the University of California had taken it over until the 14th September. Bleh. I had a quick whiz around St John's Basilica instead, which I wouldn't have paid for, but as I could get in with my Müze Card anyway, I thought I might as well.
Another tourist stop when in Selçuk is the short bus trip to Sirince. Like Kayaköy, this was subjected to a population exchange, but in Sirince's case, the transplant was successful. The Greeks who settled there came from a wine-making region in Greece, and found the land around Sirince well-suited to apply their cultivation skills. Hence why Sirince is now famous for its wines, especially the many fruit wines, which is what the tourists head off to drink. If you wanted to, it would be pretty easy to get roaring drunk, as there are streets full of shops, all offering a free tasting. There isn't a whole lot of point in shopping around, however (unless you're on an extended 'tasting'), as the price for any bottle of fruit wine appears to be set at 10 TL.
Pamukkale was our final stop before heading back to Istanbul, and it was what my girlfriend had been waiting for. As I mentioned, she's a big fan of natural wonders (as described on the Pamukkale website, it is home to a rare chemical process), so was excited to see the white travertines. I hadn't been too thrilled by the prospect, but must admit it was fun to walk up them barefoot, especially paddling through the pools squishing the soft minerals between your toes.
The travertines themselves are fragile, and easily damaged by human sweat and the dirt from footwear. That is why you have to take your shoes off before heading up the slope (there is a broad path you are allowed to use, but only barefoot). There has already been serious damage, due to the tourist boom some years ago: hotels were once built directly on top of the travertines. All those tourists bathing and walking in their shoes on the travertines discoloured the rock. This has since been stopped and the hotels pulled down.
Or rather, it is something the authorities are trying to stop. There wasn't much security, which could do with being beefed up. You are supposed to stick to the path, which our Intrepid tour group did, but many others didn't. I'm not quite sure why, but Russians appear to be very bad at this (at least I assume Russian: may have misplaced the language). They took no notice of the frequent signs or angry whistles of the guards, caring only about posing for pictures. It got worse later on at night, when the guards couldn't see, with these idiots crunching down the travertines in their shoes. It's frustrating that there are always a few people more than happy to ruin it for everyone else.
I was more interested in the Roman ruins at the top of the travertines, Hierapolis. Not only does this boast a fine museum (if small), it also has the best Roman theatre I've ever seen, easily superior to the example at Ephesus, with even the stage fairly well preserved. That theatre also boasts an incredible view: if we had time, I would have liked to have sat there much longer. One of many reasons I'm keen to return at some point in the future.
Istanbul holds plenty of memories for me, especially the area my grandparents used to live. Sadly they both passed away several years ago, my grandmother following her husband, meaning I can no longer look forward to their boisterous welcome. My grandfather's shop, where his broad smile and sparkling humour brightened the street for decades, is in the process of being redeveloped. I haven't been back since he died, so it was sad to see that shopfront transformed into a characterless, empty flat.
Nevertheless, my aunt still lives nearby (literally: her flat is in the block next door), and she was very happy to see my girlfriend and I. Its been at least eight years since I last saw my aunt, and she's never met my girlfriend before, so was full of Turkish hospitality. Linguistically that made for an unusual experience, as I was speaking to my aunt and uncle in German, who would occasionally clarify between themselves in Turkish, which I would then translate into English for my gf.
The women who had joined us on the Intrepid trip hadn't entirely dispersed by this point, so we were able to have a get-together on the top floor of the Blue Hills Hotel. We got through some of our wine from Sirince, staying well away from the somewhat sparse safety precautions. Instead of a fence, there is currently a string stretched along the roof edge, which doesn't exactly inspire confidence.
It was lovely to spend some more time with the Aussies: my second Intrepid tour has definitely made me want to go with the company again somewhere else. This was undoubtedly the best tour group I've ever been with, and they really added to the experience. Hopefully we'll all be able to keep in touch. However, I remain less than eager to return to Australia (I've been once before, but only for a couple of days), despite their repeated attempts to reassure us it wasn't that dangerous. At least in England, you can be pretty certain that its only other people who might hurt you, as opposed to the majority of the wildlife. ;)
The next day my gf and I moved over to my parents' flat, which has a similarly grand view (although annoyingly, the chap across the street somehow got planning permission for an extra storey, which has partially obscured what used to be an amazing panorama). It's located above my aunt, so she was on hand to help us settle in. Having family in Turkey is a major advantage!
My gf's second introduction to Istanbul began with the Blue Mosque, which while worth visiting in its own right (especially as its free), we went to because the guidebook recommended it as a comparison for our next stop, Hagia Sophia. This was of particular interest to us both due to all the Byzantine reading we'd been doing. It is a hefty 20 TL to get in (if you don't have a Müze Kart), and at present armoured in several layers of scaffolding.
That detracts from the spectacle of the dome, and also means certain of the mosaics aren't fully visible, which is annoying. However, the upper galleries continue to boast all their treasures, though you'll have to wait for the crowds to thin out for a decent view. Although there is impressive artwork on display, I'm not sure I'd pay 20 TL if I didn't have the Museum Card.
I have been to Topkapı Palace many times, but was newly excited by the excellent book I'd been reading, Inside the Seraglio by John Freely. I'd forgotten just how busy it gets. The courtyards were rammed with tour groups for much of the day, resulting in long queues for popular exhibits like the treasury. Aggravatingly, numerous sections were closed, including my favourite, the weapons room. It is also very expensive, as on top of your 20 TL, you have to pay another 20 TL for the Harem (even with a Müze Kart). Nevertheless, there is plenty to see, from sacred preserved footprints through to jewel encrusted thrones, along with beautiful views of the Bosphorus.
Rather better value can be found at the Istanbul Archaeological Museum. For 10 TL, you have access to a tremendous range of ancient history, easily comparable to the exhibits on display at Antalya. The highlight is a section devoted to finds from the Royal Acropolis of Sidon (in modern-day Lebanon), especially the so-called Alexander Sarcophagus. This recreates scenes from the life of Alexander the Great, with some of the original paintwork still clinging to the stone. My favourite, however, was a sarcophagus featuring a pair of sphinxes above battling centaurs: the design seemed almost art deco, centuries before it came into vogue. I guess unsurprising, as the inspiration had to come from somewhere.
I'd also recommend the Basilica Cistern (known in Turkish as the 'sunken palace', Yerebatan Sarayı), though your 10 TL (3 TL with a Müze Kart) does not get you quite as much this time. The cistern is a subterranean reservoir, filled with columns brought from all over the city, meaning there is considerable diversity. Best-known are the two columns placed atop rotated medusa heads, which has generated numerous theories: perhaps a means of showing Byzantine dominance over pagan gods, or simply a practical method for further elevating pillars. More randomly, there are a large number of carp swimming in the shallow waters, clamouring for breadcrumbs.
If you have a spare 8 TL (again, I had my Museum Card, which covered it), you could also check out the Great Palace Mosaic Museum, showcasing remains of an old Byzantine palace floor. It is comparatively small, but possesses a glorious collection of Byzantine mosaics. The attraction is that not only are these mosaics well-crafted, but they are still in relatively good condition, remaining sufficiently intact that a large continuous section spreads across most of the museum.
We finished off our stay in Istanbul – and by extension, our time in Turkey - with a visit to the Galata Tower (10 TL, Müze Card again not valid). The only reason to take the lift up this historical monument is the view across the city, as the insides are distinctly modern. There is a cafe and apparently a cultural show on certain nights too, but we didn't have the financial resources or time to take advantage.
I hope to bring my girlfriend to my parents' holiday home in Bodrum at some point in the future, where I'll also have the opportunity to properly explore the history. That will have to wait, however: Spain is a more likely prospect, given that we're both still job-hunting. My personal preference is to finally make it out to America for a BJJ training trip (I'd love to go visit some of my fellow bloggers), but that's going to require a lot more funds.
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